Monterosso Al Mare Village –  Cinque Terre, Italy

There are five villages in the Cinque Terre, Italy. Each village has its own charm.

Monterosso al Mare Village

Monterosso al Mare is the first village you will visit if you are approaching the Cinque Terre from the north. Monterosso is the largest and most commercial of the five villages. It is also the most easily accessible and has the most hotels. The town is divided into two parts by an old railroad tunnel. The old center of town with a number of stores and restaurants is on one side, the beach at Fegina is on the other side. There is a sandy beach in Monterosso where it is free to swim and sunbathe. Visit Il Gigante a statue of a giant near Fegina. It is a 5 minute walk from the beach at Fegina.

Vernazza

Vernazza is the first village you will come to after Monterosso and it is the only one with its own harbor. Many people consider Vernazza to be the most picturesque village though each village is unique and beautiful in its own way. In Vernazza there are narrow alley’s that you can wander and many window shopping opportunities to be enjoyed. You can sit in one of the cafe’s around the harbor and look out to Sea or up into the vineyards.

Corniglia

The next town is Corniglia and it is the only village without direct access to the sea. You must climb 360 steps from the train station to reach Corniglia. A small shuttle bus runs regularly from the train station to the village if you prefer. At the top of the stairs there is a street that leads to a small observation area that will allow you to look towards both Monterosso and Riomaggiore.

If you are physically able, it is worth either walking up or down the stairs so you can enjoy the view. The stairs are wide; however, they are uneven in places. You can see the stairs from the train station and make your decision when you get there.

Manarola

After Corniglia you will see Manarola. Ancient wineries are located inside many of the older buildings in Manarola. If the weather is warm you will see people swimming from the rocks and sun bathing along the rocky shore. Feel free to join in, but remember you are on your own, there are not any lifeguards.

Riomaggiore Cinque Terre Street

Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore is the last village as you approach from the north. It is a beautiful village of quaint brightly painted houses nestled into the hillsides. If you are coming from La Spezia it will be the first village you come to.

There is a National Park store and Internet Cafe located near the train station. There is also a dive center in the village. Riomaggiore has a pretty pebble beach where you can pick up a few stones as keepsakes from your trip. Although the train runs frequently from La Spezia it is possible to take a taxi if you prefer.  You will have to negotiate a rate.

Train Between Villages

A local train runs regularly between the five villages, though it rarely runs on a schedule. You can take a boat from each of the villages except Corniglia. You may have to wait for either the train or the boat, but no matter where you are waiting you can sit and enjoy the view.

A hiking trail runs between the five villages of the Cinque Terre in Italy

The trails that run from Monterosso to Vernazza and from Vernazza to Corniglia are difficult. The other two trails are easy. You will pay an entrance fee, one ticket will give you access to all the trails.

There are ticket booths at the start of each trail so save your ticket if you plan to walk more than one segment of the trail. There are different options, some of the tickets can be used for both the boat and the local train. The tickets are generally good for one day. Tickets are sold at the train stations and some of the trail heads.

To learn more about hiking in the Cinque Terre visit Discover Walking

Here is a YouTube Video with beatuiful pictures of the 5 Cinque Terre villages:

This area is one of the best places in Italy to visit.  Definitely add it to your travel plans.

Cinque Terre Rick Steves’ Guide Book

Currently Rick Steves has the best guide book to Cinque Terre.  It will provide you with helpful information to plan your trip.

For Amazon reviews, pricing and availability for Rick Steves’ Snapshot Italy’s Cinque Terre click here.

Cinque Terra, Italy – Via Dell’Amore – Photo by Benjamin Vander Steen

The Cinque Terre, the five villages on the Ligurian coast in western Italy, is a hikers paradise. The five villages of the Cinque Terre are linked together by a series of hiking trails all. The main trails range from very easy to very difficult. Additional hiking trails veer off from the main trails wandering up steep hills and through vineyards. The villages, trails and beaches are all beautiful, not just a hikers paradise but a photographers as well.

All of the main trails offer spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea. With the exception of the trail linking Vernazza and Corneglia which leads away from the water the paths take you along cliffs high above the Sea.On a sunny day the colors are mesmerizing

On the trail from Monterossa al Mare to Vernazza you will hike through vineyards, over stone walls and along the Mediterranean Sea. The trails that run from Monterossa to Vernazza and Vernazza to Corniglia are the most difficult of the four trails. You will need a light weight hiking boot or hiking tennis shoe to make the trip comfortably. There are few handrails and the trail can be narrow in places so you need to bring a walking stick if you have balance problems. If you do not feel that you can walk the whole trail you can walk part of it and enjoy the view. You may encounter bees, bugs and birds so be prepared with an antihistamine (like Benadryl), bug spray and your binoculars.

The trail between Corniglia and Manarola is an easy dirt trail that leads you along the sea. You will have a spectacular view of the Ligurian coast.

The trail between Manarola and Riomaggiore is not a trail at all but a wide cobblestone walkway known as the Via dell’Amore (Love’s Way). There are benches along the path where you can sit and enjoy the view. It is here that you will often see women hiking in heels, even though signs forbid it.

There are places along all the trails where you can take a break and enjoy a picnic lunch. On the more difficult paths you will be sitting on the ground or a low wall, on the easier paths there are either benches or picnic tables. There is a small restaurant located on the main path from Riomaggiore to Corniglia.

Rain is a common occurrance so bring a lightweight rain jacket.

Regardless of which trails you choose to walk don’t forget your camera! The Cinque Terre has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site and it is an Italian National Park so if you visit the Cinque Terre, please respect the environment and stay on the marked trails.

About the trails of the Cinque Terre:

Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza: This is a difficult trail that is 2.5 miles (4km) with many up’s and down’s. It will take most people between 1.5 and 2 hours depending on how many stops you make to admire the view.

Vernazza to Corniglia: This is the most difficult of the four trails and has the least number of ocean views. It will take most people about 2 hours to hike this 2.5 mile (4 km) trail. The terrain is uneven in places and you will have to be able to hike up and down hills.

Corniglia to Manarola: This is an easy 45 minutes walk and you have an ocean view for the entire walk. The trail is less than 2 miles (3km).

Manarola to Riomaggiore: This .5 mile trail (.6 km) is an easy stroll on a paved walkway. It will take about 30 minutes to walk the path.

How to Explore Cinque Terre By Boat

Not a hiker? Not to worry, you can still enjoy the beautiful views of the Cinque Terre by taking the ferry that runs between four of the five villages.

Starting at Easter and running through October or later if the weather is warm and dry you can enjoy the scenery by ferry.

The boat runs frequently between Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola and Riomaggiore and less frequently to Portovenere.  The ferry does not stop at Corniglia since this is the only village without water access. At certain times of the year and week a boat also runs to Portofino.

How to Find Schedules of the Cinque Terre Ferry Boats

Schedules are posted at various points around the villages and information can be obtained at the information offices located near the train stations in each of the villages of the Cinque Terre.

Be forewarned – the schedule is a little loose, to put it mildly. I am not bothered by the randomness that seems to govern both the arrival and departure of the boats and trains in the Cinque Terre because no matter where you find yourself waiting for transportation the view will be beautiful.

However, I can tell you from personal experience there are people who like their boats and trains to arrive and depart when the schedule says they will arrive and depart.

If you lose track of time, which is easy to do in an area where time suddenly seems unimportant, and you miss the last boat, you can always take the local train that runs between the villages.  Of course, you can always walk one of hiking trails that connect the villages of the Cinque Terre.

The ferries that service the villages of the Cinque Terre are larger than I had expected them to be. Since the rides between the villages are short there is little risk of sea sickness for anyone except those people who cannot endure any motion at all.

A web-site provides information on ferries that run between the villages of the Cinque Terre as well as some of the nearby coastal villages and cities. 

Cinque Terre ferry boat video tour

You will see the coastline and hikers on the trail in the video.

Viewing the villages of the Cinque Terre from a boat provides you with some of the most beautiful scenic views you will encounter in Italy.  Don’t miss this opportunity for sight seeing.

Riomaggiore Cinque Terre Village

Amore Travel Guides answers your FAQ (frequently asked questions) about Cinque Terre.

What is Cinque Terre?

The Cinque Terre is made up of 5 villages linked together by hiking trails. 

Rick Steves has a great video that helps you understand what he calls the Rustic Riveria.

Where is Cinque Terre?

The villages are located on the Ligurian coast of Italy between Levanto to the north and La Spezia to the south. The Cinque Terre is a National park and a UNESCO World heritage site.

The five villages are:  Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.

Although Corniglia is thought to date from Roman times, it is believed the other villages came into their own during Medieval times. The local economy continues to be based on fish and wine, though tourism now plays an important role. There are a number of historic sites including churches that are open to visitors in each of the villages.

Here is a Google map to help you see the location:

View Larger Map

How do I get around Cinque Terre?

You will not need a car in the Cinque Terre, however, if you need to bring your car there is limited parking in Monterosso al Mare. Be forewarned: driving in this area is treacherous!

Any suggestions on food?

There are restaurants for every type of pocketbook in the villages – inexpensive pizzerias, mid-priced cafes and more luxurious restaurants.  Every village has restaurants, stores and deli’s where you can buy food to take on a picnic. Most Americans would not think to try them, but the fresh anchovies are spectacular and taste nothing like what is served on pizza in the US.

Where to stay?

You can find hotels and youth hostels or rent an apartment if that is your preference. You can stay in Levanto if you prefer, but try to avoid La Spezia. La Spezia has a large Italian Navy presence and has the feel of a large port.

What is the weather like?

The Cinque Terre is a very popular vacation spot with Italians, so it will be crowded on weekends in the summer. It can also be very hot in the summer and rain showers are not uncommon at any time of the year. So, come prepared with a light weight rain jacket. Most hotels and apartments do not have air conditioning.

One of the best parts of visiting the Cinque Terre in Italy is that there is nothing you have to see but the view. You will spend your days hiking, touring by boat, picnicking, watching the fishing boats and fishermen and if you are lucky observing the locals taking care of their vineyards.

Cinque Terre is a wonderful destination for hikers . . . read why:

Cinque Terra, Italy – Via Dell’Amore – Photo by Benjamin Vander Steen

Cinque Terre, Italy is a A Hiker’s Paradise

Hiking 4 Cinque Terre Trails in Italy by Discover Walking

Riomaggiore Village – Cinque Terre

Riomaggiore is one of the five villages of the Cinque Terre located on the Ligurian coast of Italy. It is one of the most colorful and beautiful villages in all of Italy. Bright houses teeter on the side of a hill overlooking the blue-green waters of the Gulf of Genova.

Riomaggiore is the last village as you approach from the north. If you are coming from La Spezia it will be the first village you come to.  The five villages of the Cinque Terre are linked by a hiking trail of varying degrees of difficulty. The trail linking Riomaggiore and Manarola is by far the easiest of the five trails.

Hiking Via Dell’Amore Loves Way – Photo By Benjamin Vander Steen

Hiking Via dell’Amore Trial of Love’s Way

In fact, the trail between Riomaggiore and Manarola is not a trail at all but a wide cobblestone walkway known as the Via dell’Amore (Love’s Way). There are benches along the Via dell’Amore where you can sit and enjoy the view, this is not the case on the trails linking the other villages. Via dell’Amore is a little over .5 mi (approximately 1 km) long.

History

Riomaggiore dates from the early 13th century which probably explains the network of alleyways and staircases. If you plan to stay in Riomaggiore plan to walk up some steps. When you are making a reservation most apartments will let you know the number of steps you have to walk up to get to your unit. If they don’t, be sure to ask,  they can number in the hundreds.

What You Will See

Small stores, pizzeria’s and restaurants are located on the main tourist street in Riomaggiore. Many of the stores sell the sweet white wine that is produced in the vineyards that run up and down the hills and cliffs of the surrounding area. Be sure to wander off the main street and get a feel for local life.

The Cinque Terre is part of the Parco Nazionale Delle Cinque Terre, a Unesco world heritage site. There is a Park store and Internet Cafe located near the train station. There is also a dive center in the village. Riomaggiore has a pretty pebble beach where you can pick up a few stones as keepsakes from your trip.

Transportation Tips

The ferry that takes tourists between the villages stops near the village boat ramp. Since the ferry runs on a schedule known only to the captain you will have time to buy a gelato, sit and relax and watch the locals maneuver their boats in the choppy water near the boat ramp while you wait to catch the ferry.

Although the train runs frequently from La Spezia it is possible to take a taxi if you prefer. You will have to negotiate a rate. When you arrive by train you walk through a small tunnel from the Riomaggiore train station to get to the main part of town.

YouTube Video with Rick Steves sharing about Riomaggiore and Monterosso al Mare

Riomaggiore Village is one of the best cities in Italy to visit.  You won’t be disappointed if you travel to this destination.

Santa Margherita – Ligure, Italy

Santa Margherita Ligure is a combination of old and new. Wake up early enough and you can still find local fishermen unloading their daily catch and see locals gossiping on the benches that dot the harbor. Visit the harbor later in the day and you will see yachts so big and from so many exotic places that you will think you are in Monaco.

Santa Margherita Ligure lies between the Cinque Terre to the south and Genova to the north. Located in the middle of the Italian Riviera, Santa Margherita is a cheaper place to stay than Portofino, but it is no less beautiful. Located about 3.75 miles (6 km) from Portofino you can walk to Portofino by following the signs.

The town of Santa Margherita is large enough that it can easily absorb the tourists that arrive by boat, train or bus, while still providing a small town feel. Visitors can take a walk along the palm lined harbor, wander through the marina or enjoy the small town beach.

Things to To Do

Bars, restaurants, cafés, along with a few upscale stores and gelaterie selling delicious gelato line the harbor and sea. The restaurants range in price depending on the fare and the view.

If you are planning a hike to Portofino you can pick up picnic supplies at the Coop supermarket located in Corso Matteoti. The supermarket seems to keep its own hours.

The last time I visited Santa Margherita the market closed early because it had been raining all day. Located near the Coop is a bookstore which has a limited selection of used paperbacks in English.

The town has a number of attractions such as the Villa Durazzo a 17th century palazzo located in a park. Walk up to the park and you can enjoy a beautiful view of the harbor. Located on the Piazza Caprera is the Basilica di Santa Margherita.

Other towns in Italy have more impressive churches and villas. The reason to visit Santa Margherita Ligure is to enjoy the natural beauty of the area. In addition to walking to Portofino you can take a bus or a ferry but you cannot take a train to Portofino. Other good daytrips from Santa Margherita are Rapallo, Genova and the villages of Cinque Terre. Ferries to coastal destinations leave from the Piazza Martiri della Liberta.

Location, Map and Directions

The Santa Margherita Ligure Tourist Information Office is located at Via XXV Aprile, 2/B.  Here is a Google map to the general area:

View Larger Map

Cinque Terre Rick Steves’ Guide Book

Currently Rick Steves has the best guide book to the Cinque Terre area. It will provide you with helpful information to plan your trip.

Click here for Amazon reviews, pricing and availability for Rick Steves’ Snapshot Italy’s Cinque Terre Guide Book.

Portofino Italy Boat – Photo By Christine Zenino

Most places you visit in Italy transport you back in time to Ancient Rome or the Renaissance.

In Portofino, you will feel like you have gone back to the 1950’s and 60’s. That is when Portofino became popular with jet setting celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor, Ingrid Bergman, Ernest Hemingway, Frank Sinatra, Brigitte Bardot and on and on.

The rich and famous would arrive by yacht and spend their time lounging around luxury hotels and private villas. It was a place to see and be seen.

It is no wonder Portofino attracts masses of wealthy people. 

Portofino is beautiful and there are a lot of people there with cameras. Sitting on a small promontory, surrounded by water Portofino is irresistibly photogenic. The small, colorful harbor is crowded with yachts and sailboats, large and small.

Portofino, Italy – Things to Do

The things to do in Portofino are walk and people watch.

The best walk is up the steps that lead from the port to the church of San Giorgio. From San Giorgio you will get a beautiful view of the harbor and bay. If you are up to it, you can continue up the path to the Portofino Lighthouse where you will get an even better view.

The best people watching? There are a number of small and expensive cafès around the harbor where you can enjoy an espresso or glass of wine while you watch both people and boats.

Because of its small size, the total area of Portofino is just a little over a 1 mile, Portofino is nicknamed the most beautiful Piazzetta (small square) in the world.

Portofino does not offer undiscovered beauty. The crowds in the high season can be intense. The beauty of Portofino is not diminished by the seasons. It is just as pretty in the fall, spring and even winter so plan your trip keeping the crowds in mind.

Where to Stay to Save Money

Portofino is so beautiful it belongs on anyone’s list of places to see in Italy. But it can be a little pricey for some of us.

I started going to Portofino with my family when we lived outside Genoa. For us it was a day trip in the car, we never saw the inside of one of the luxury hotels or private villas. And, in spite of all the famous people who call Portofino home in the summer. . .  all my celebrity sightings have been in New York City, not Portofino.

There are a number of towns with nice hotels along the Ligurian Coast where you can stay and make Portofino a day trip.

You can stay in Santa Margherita which is a pretty town in its own right with more hotel options than Portofino.

How to Get There

From Santa Margherita you can hike to Portofino, take the bus or take a boat. Buses to Portofino leave about every 30 minutes from well marked bus stops.

The train does not go to Portofino. If you decide to drive in the summer you will most likely be stuck in traffic.

Fortunately it is a pretty drive so at least you will have something to see while you are sitting there.

All these years later I still remember my first view of the brightly colored houses against the blue Ligurian Sea.  Our view only lasted a few minutes but we talked about it for the rest of the trip.  We tore up the internet when we got home trying to find out as much as we could about the area.  It is one of my favorite places in Italy and I now try to get back every couple of years.

At the time of our trip most Americans had not heard of the Cinque Terre.  Rick Steves is the one who introduced this beautiful area to Americans and his guide remains the best for travelers planning a visit to the Cinque Terre.

The Cinque Terre is a remote chunk of the Italian Riviera, it is the traffic-free, lowbrow, underappreciated alternative to the French Riviera.  There’s not a museum in sight.  Just sun, sea, sand (pebbles), wine, and pure unadulterated Italy.  Rick Steves Snapshot Italy’s Cinque Terre Guide Book

Pages: 144 pages (Making it small enough for you to take with you on your trip)

Dimensions: 4.5 x 0.5 x 8 inches

Weight: 6,4 ounces

Maps: Rick Steves includes hand drawn maps in his books which can be helpful in showing you the layout of an area but are not helpful in getting you to a specific place.  I am not always a fan of his maps but in this case they work.  After all there are not a lot of streets or sites in the Cinque Terre so a simple map works well.

What I like about Rick Steves’ Snapshot Italy’s Cinque Terre

• He covers not only the Cinque Terre but the nearby towns.  In peak season it can be difficult to find lodging in one of the 5 villages that make up the Cinque Terre so you may need to consider one of the nearby towns.  One time I stayed in Sestri Levante and thoroughly enjoyed it.  The trains run so frequently that going back and forth from the Cinque Terre was easy.  Avoid La Spezia if possible.  La Spezia is home to the Italian Navy and so is not quite as scenic as the other towns and can be a little seedy.  One note, a page on Carrara is included in this book and it is not part of the Cinque Terre.

• As with all of Rick Steves books there is a lot of good practical information to help you navigate the area.

• Rick Steves books make for good reading before your trip and his folksy style makes you comfortable with traveling to a foreign country. If you have ever seen him on TV you get the feeling that if he can travel then so can I.  He always tries to speak a little Italian and to their credit the Italians try to understand him.

• There really is a Rick Steves. It is nice to know that there is a real face behind the books.  Anyone who has seen him speak or read his blogs knows that the Cinque Terre is among his favorite places in Europe.  When there was devastating flooding in Vernazza a couple of years ago he was a big advocate for the area encouraging people to go there to help keep the small independently owned restaurants and hotels going.

• Rick likes to get to know the locals and encourages others to do the same. Strike up a conversation with the staff of a hotel or restaurant. Talk to the person sitting next to you on a train or waiting in line to buy a ticket. These conversations give you insights into the place you are visiting that you will not find in any guidebook. To encourage this Rick Steves provides the names of hotel and restaurant owners which is a nice touch, one you do not always find in other guidebooks. Since ownership of establishments does not change hands as often in Italy as in the US, chances are the names he provides are still current

What I don’t like about Rick Steves’ Snapshot Italy’s Cinque Terre

It is hard to find something not to like about this book.  I have the same issues with this book that I have with all of his books.

• When Rick Steves writes about it, his fans will flock there in droves making whatever it is ….hotel, restaurant or site, crowded with American tourists. People who like Rick Steves follow him with an almost fanatical devotion. I have to admit his are among my favorite guidebooks but I am always hesitant to try his small hotels for fear of running into a hoard of Rick Steves devotees.

• After a while you get tired of reading his opinions on evvveeerrrrything.

• His writing is conversational, sometimes you just want the facts

For Amazon reviews, pricing and availability for Rick Steves’ Snapshot Italy’s Cinque Terre click here.