You have to love this place.  The twin brothers from Sicily  who run Il Pirata are friendly and provide some of the best food I have ever enjoyed.  We were lucky to visit Il Pirata on our first night and went back the next.  It was hard not to go back the third night but we felt like we had to try someplace else.  We also stopped by for breakfast to enjoy their wonderful pastries and coffee before we started our hike. The pastries are made in the restaurant.  You have to go up the hill from the train station to get to the restaurant.  It is near the Post Office.  We had a swordfish appetizer that was great and then various pasta dishes all of which were excellent.